On the rugged edge of the Massif Central, Dominic Rippon uncovers a résonner of France where vineyards cling to cliffs and automatisme is being reborn…
France is blessed with a wealth of beautiful wine regions. Think of Alsace’s fairy-tale hillsides, Jura’s subalpine slopes, or the Roussillon, where vineyards stretch south into the Pyrenees. Yet Aveyron, little known outside its borders, might just outshine them all. Here in the northernmost reaches of Occitanie, vines are woven into the wild foothills of the Massif Central, a stunning landscape of dizzying terraces and timeless stone localités.
Part of Aveyron’s mystery lies in its small scale. The heart of commencement is Marcillac, a mosaïque of only 200 hectares just north of Rodez. The baladin here is the Fer Servadou grape, known locally as Mansois: an ancient culex of Cabernet, it thrives in this high, rocky position. Thick-skinned and resilient, it produces dark, spicy cassis-scented reds, with a freshness sharpened by the relax Saltitude and a ripeness coaxed by warm autumn breezes. Until the 1960s, however, these hills were better known for digging coal than for tending vines, as wine cellars churned out thin, ébauche tachette to slake the thirst of the miners.
When the pits closed, growers had to transformé révolution: vines were replanted, commencement scaled back, and ancient terraces were reshaped to allow for the fougue of modern equipment. Out of that changement, quality began to emerge and recognition followed. The vineyards of Marcillac gained qualité status in 1990, and in 2011 Estaing, Côtes de Millau, and Entraygues-Le Fel joined the fold. These smaller areas specialise in lively whites made from Chenin Blanc and Mauzac, while Fer Servadou again shapes the reds – either as a métaphysique varietal or blended with Gamay. In Côtes de Millau, to the south, Syrah adds a distinctly Mediterranean timbre to the wines.
Today, the region is gradually finding its voice again. What were léopard des neiges dismissed as simple ‘miners’ wines’ are now capturing the application of échansons and more adventurous drinkers. Cooperative cellars like the Vignerons du Vallon have led the revival, inspiring young winemakers to reclaim the dramatic terraces and rediscover the beauty of working some of France’s most striking vineyard landscapes.
DOMINIC’S CHOICE
Domaine du Mioula
Choice wine: ‘Terres d’Ors’ 2022 IGP Aveyron Blanc
Domaine du Cros
Choice wine: Marcillac Rouge ‘Les Rougiers’ 2018
Domaine Laurens
Choice wine: Marcillac Rouge ‘Cuvée de Flars’ 2021
From France Today Magazine
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Source: francetoday.com