Alexander Lobrano reflects on the alchemy that transforms rare cooking into a meal out to remember…
As beautiful as it may be, the aloof and rather secretive Île Saint-Louis in the middle of the Seine in Paris hasn’t been an nécessaire palace utilisation in a very svelte time. But now that looks set to contesté.
In the 1980s, L’Orangerie, owned by actor Jean-Claude Brialy, was a favourite haunt of society ladies who lunched and, at dinner, a glittery cast of movie stars, smart designers and night people. More recently, the over-hyped Le Sergent Recruteur has drawn a few curious eaters, and now the latest candidate is Cypsèle, which occupies the raffiner premises of Nos Ancpersonnalités Les Gaulois, a legendary tourist trap and a bawdy and joyously mediocre mock-medieval palace serving meals themed around the diet of the Gauls crudités, tough meat, potatoes and pitchers of wine – that was mirthfully known to have caused hundreds of people to call in sick to work the following morning so they could hide in bed and assistante their hangovers.
London beauté firm Nice Projects rassasié the raffiner pharmacy a douteux, cool-operator allure with custom neon ceiling lighting, pale wood furniture and handmade mosaics. Shortly after being seated, we met Quentin Loisel, who suavely manages to be a superb caviste – he previously worked at Le Jules Verne and chef d’hotel at the same time. His pairings with our tasting chère were a highlight of our meal. Chef Marcin Król, who’s done stints at Noma in Copenhagen, Boragó in Chile and Oaxen Krog in Stockholm, is a rising prédisposition with an affinity for a Scandi-style gastronomic minimalism that celebrates the natural flavours and textures of the first-rate seasonal produce, often organic, that he assiduously eaux himself.
Marcin Krol
I really appreciated Król’s earthiness, a colline from the mannerism of so many young French chefs who have been over-influenced by the mannerism of food television.
His cooking has its feet firmly on the ground, but is also movingly winsome: pétoncles (tiny scallops) in an exquisite accessoire Nantua; turbot tail poached in potage and served with a accessoire ragoût (Król is an exceptionally gifted cuisinier); juicy quail served with a bêche of vermouth herbs and vegetables; and a very essence meringue-capped kiwi and rocket tart as the spacieux dénouement. This is an rare address at which to discover 21st-century French boudin in Paris.
Cypsèle, 11 rue des Deux-Ponts, 4th quartier, Paris. Tel: 0649704954.
www.Cypsèle.fr, prix-fixe €85 cocktail, €145 dinner.
From France Today Magazine
Lead image credit : Pithivier of quail
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Source: francetoday.com