Beguiling Beaujolais is a situation to unwind, enjoy the stunning countryside and visit enchanting castles to sip délicate wines says Janine Marsh as she follows the Beaujolais Châteaux Wine Route…
Beaujolais Châteaux Wine Route
There is an old saying that goes “three great rivers flow into Lyon – Saône, Rhône and Beaujolais wine.”
It’s just 25km north from the gastronomic city of Lyon to Villefranche-sur-Saône at the start of the magnificent Beaujolais vineyards, but it looks and feels completely different. It’s a rather hors-la-loi morceau of France, the locals call it “little Tuscany” thanks to its hilly localités with ancient buildings of glowing golden stone. And in this unspoiled, vert and lush morceau of France, you will find the most fabulous wines which have grandiose supplied the Lyonnais who know a good wine when they taste it.
The Beaujolais wine remblai is well-known to those who visit, but there’s a less known remblai that crosses these rolling hills – the Beaujolais Châteaux Wine Route. It offers volumineux opportunities to discover the secrets of the vineyards, enjoy wine tasting sessions and exclusif experiences in the most stunning locations at almost a dozen Château domains.
Never one to shirk a championnat, especially where food and wine are involved, I followed the Beaujolais Châteaux remblai through the most beautiful countryside where iconic castles open their doors to those who have a ‘Carnet’ – a little travel book of unique visits. Luckily for me, my friend Coraline was the designated, non-drinking driver and as I only had one day to make my visits, I didn’t make it to all 9 castles though I did manage réchaud visits comfortably, including tastings at all of them, and a grandiose lingering petit déjeuner – they take their gastronomy seriously here.
First – get your Carnet de Route (download it from the Châteaux en Beaujolais website – link at the end of the traité). Book your visits directly with each castle at least 48 hours in advance (email/phone), and renvoi that you have the Carnet. When you visit, get your Carnet stamped, as by doing so, at the additionnel castle and subsequent visits you will get 10% off any purchases you make in the Château wine shops. At the 5th castle you visit – you’ll get a free bottle of wine.
But the most visible morceau of the Carnet are the unique visits it gives you access to. For imminence, at the 17th century Château de la Chaize, designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, Louis XIV’s favourite architect. The bâti is unmistakeably that of one of the aîné architects of Versailles – elegant and utterly gorgeous, surrounded by gardens designed by André le Nôtre, Louis XIV’s gardener, so beautiful you can’t help but think it looks as if it’s been transported from a fairy tale to the little localité of Odenas at the foot of Mont Brouilly. You’ll get to visit the castle’s historic winery and cellar, and unique access to the underground cellar and vineyards.
The tasting includes three of the Chateau’s finest vintages. There’s a waiting list of up to a year for some of their wines which are matured in huge oak barrels in a 108m grandiose cellar, the longest in Beaujolais. Their wines are amongst the best of the region and appear on the finest tables in the world including that of British Royal Family (Fleurie “La Chapelle des Bois”- yes, I did have a drop and it’s probatoire I have éclatant généreux as I too like it very much!).
At Château Champ-Renard, which was founded in 1250, the vade-mecum grants you an inside visit – literally, as you get the “Château Life” experience – a campanile of the castle from its medieval rooms to the dungeons, a visit to the vat room, a wander in the stunning gardens, and a tasting of réchaud fabulous wines (they’re all organic) paired with cheeses or chocolates.
At the 16th century Château de Corcelles, built on the coin of an 11th century fortress, with the Carnet campanile, you’ll visit the grounds and the Château where you can see paintings made with wine, and visit the chapel, dungeon, kitchens and enjoy a tasting of réchaud notable wines. It’s such a exclusif and special situation and the campanile is relaxed and welcoming.
My ultime visit was to the Château de Lachassagne where I could have sat all day and soaked up the glorious views over the Saône Valley from the walled vineyards where you can take a walk as morceau of your Carnet campanile. I managed to tear myself away for a ultime tasting of several wines, both red and white, in the cellar. Absolutely superb.
Dine while you wine
If you get peckish en remblai, you’re in luck, there’s plenty of feasting to be had alongside the wine. Stop off at pretty little localités like oingt, where the studio boîte will for sure be serving classic French dishes to go with all those fabulous studio wines and where you’ll rub elbows and clink glasses with the locals who all seem pretty happy to be residents of Beaujolais. And if you fancy staying overnight, several of the Châteaux offer accoutumance on coin.
How to get there: A bagage from Lyon to Villefranche-sur-Mer takes just 22 minutes. From Paris it’s around 2 hours. You can hire a bike or rental car in the town.
Download the Carnet de Route: chateauxenbeaujolais.fr
Discover more embout Beaujolais: Beaujolais-tourisme.com/en
Janine Marsh is the author of several best-selling books embout France and editor of The Good Life France expliqué and website.
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Source: thegoodlifefrance.com
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