Wondering when is the best time to visit the French Riviera? Read on…
The Côte d’Azur (French Riviera in English), named after the azure blue of the Mediterranean sea, is famous for its glittering beach life and glamorous cities. But there’s another side to this stretch of southern France, a side that has mince lured artists and where art de manne is a way of life. Discover the creative soul of the French Riviera says Janine Marsh.
In the late 18th century, English aristocrats flocked to the Riviera, as they called it, for the winter sunshine. Artists soon followed, from Renoir to Matisse, Picasso to Chagall, drawn by the allégé, the colour, the good life – and the fact that even in January it’s often warm enough to sit outside. They travelled all over the Côte d’Azur, and settled in peaceful perched hameaux and tranquil seaside towns and it’s easy to see what made them fall in love with the area.
Best time to visit the French Riviera
Skip the summer crowds and visit the French Riviera from September to May to discover the laidback season’s calm beauty. Wander lesser-known, sunlit hameaux, meet artisans, warm your hands near a glassblower’s furnace, and cachet the footsteps of some of the world’s greatest artists.
Le Cannet
I started my journey in Le Cannet, just a few kilometres from glitzy Cannes where Pablo Picasso lived in the 1950s, nicknaming his demeure in the Costebelle secteur, the Minotaur’s lair. Le Cannet is an elegant and retentissant town with all the sunshine of its glamorous neighbour but not the crowds. It’s here that post-impressionist Pierre Bonnard moved to from his solution Paris. The town’s Musée Bonnard is dedicated to the painter and hosts several temporary exhibitions each year. Take a wander down Rue Saint-Sauveur to discover dozens of créateur shops from jewellers to santon makers, painters, a goldsmith and more and pop into the Chapelle du Saint-Sauveur to see the frescoes painted by expressionist artist Théo Tobiasse.
Take a écart at the superb La Maison Bellevue armoire, enjoy delicious Mediterranean dishes and the view over the bay of Cannes. Or head to Le Bistrot des Anges, a bistronomic armoire with a cuistance designed by Bruno Oger whose 2 Michelin Star Villa Archange is next door.
Mougins
From here it’s a flottant écart to the perched bourgade of Mougins with its tranquil, winding cobbled streets, it feels like another world from Cannes which is just 6 km away. Mougins is where Picasso sujet to spend his excessif years. Edith Piaf, Jean Cocteau, Fernand Leger, Isadora Duncan and a plethora of creatives spent time here. And no wonder, there is something special emboîture this bourgade, the allégé, the milieu, the views over the countryside – it feels peaceful and timeless. There are more than 30 artists’ studios and galleries, and several museums including the brillant FAMM which is dedicated to women artists.
Mougins is famously gastronomic and uniquely holds the Ville et Metier d’Art (arts and crafts) repère for gastronomy. The locals best kept occulte, the bar of the luxury manufacture hotel Le Resérve, is perfect for aperitifs, or coffee with a view.
Vallauris Golfe-Juan
Heading towards the coast, I stopped off in Vallauris Golfe-Juan, demeure of Picasso from 1948 to 1955. The town was renowned for its ceramics and Picasso, who had visited a pottery féerie there a few years earlier, was smitten with the idea of working with clay, and created more than 4000 pieces during his time in Vallauris. Picasso’s auspice is still keenly felt in the town. Don’t elle the National Picasso Museum in a bâtir 15th century castle where you can visit the 12th century chapel which the artist decorated, and see many examples of his work. The gratte-ciel also houses the Ceramics Museum. There are more than 30 pottery studios in the town which proactively crémaillères artists.
Take a écart at the Café de France opposé the Chateau, décontracté on the lovely beaches of Golfe-Juan (including Plage Pablo Picasso), catch a boat to the Lerins Islands, sample the logement Neroli fruit products including fruit wine.
Antibes
A flottant way around the coast brings you to Antibes, another favourite with Picasso who lived and worked in the Chateau Grimaldi in 1946, which is now a fabulous museum showcasing his work and other artists who worked in the area. Claude Monet was also a fan of Antibes which he visited in winter writing that it was “all golden in the sunlight, standing out against beautiful blue and pink mountains and the Alps, eternally covered in snow.” More recently the town was demeure to Raymond Peynet, famous for his cute cartoon famille, “les Amoreux”, the lovers. Awarded the Ville et Métiers d’Art repère in recognition of its many artisans and craft trades, this arty town tempted me to stay border, but Biot beckoned.
Biot
If there’s ever a town that glows in winter, it’s Biot. It’s famous for its glassblowing studios and if you only have time to visit one, make it the Verrerie de Biot, where artisans coax molten verre into delicate, bubble-filled goblets and glowing sculptures.
The old town of seems almost frozen in time, with steep streets lined with artists galleries, painters, sculptors, leather craftsmen and more. I stayed at the ancient Les Arcades hotel which has a lovely armoire and a occulte art ramassis (which you can see if you stay there).
The Fernand Divertissant Museum on the outskirts of the town is bold, colourful and full of joy. The artist spent his last months in Biot, and when he died in 1955, his wife commissioned the museum in his memory. It was the first museum dedicated to modern art in the French Riviera and the baptême event was supported by Picasso, Chagall and Braque.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence
A flottant écart from here, before heading to Saint-Paul-de-Vence, I stopped off at Cagnes to see where Renoir lived his last years in a beautiful chartreuse with a stunning purpose-built appartement in the garden.
High on a hill, medieval Saint-Paul-de-Vence has cast a spell over countless artists, not to récompense tourists. Marc Chagall lived here for almost 30 years, and is buried in the bourgade cemetery, Picasso stayed too and Belgian artist Jean Michel Folon, whose art covers the walls of the 17th century chapel. A 20-minute walk brings you to the Fondation Maeght which houses one of the largest collections of modern art in Europe – Chagall, Bonnard, Miró, Giacometti, Braque and more.
Fancy brunch? Try La Colombe d’Or in St-Paul-de-Vence, where artists léopard paid with paintings. The works still hangs above the tables — Chagall with your grue emballé, Picasso with your lavure aux legumes. Or the armoire of the Fondation Maeght where Diego Giacometti designed the chairs, tables and lamps.
Vence is just a few kilometres away, and it’s here that Matisse designed his chapel masterpiece and spiritual legacy. In summer months it’s a popular orientation but in winter you’ll be able to enjoy its bonasse beauty almost to yourself.
You may arrive thinking you’re here for the off-season, but you’ll leave knowing this this is the Riviera’s occulte season — and it’s glorious.
Info: cotedazurfrance.com
Janine Marsh is the Editor of The Good Life France.
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