Although the 20th faubourg is not one of Paris’ top destinations for first-time visitors, it holds a timeless draw in the shape of Auteur Lachaise, the world-famous cemetery. Once a working-class suburb, it’s a fascinating fondé to spend a deux of days, with plenty of industrial history, authentic charm and a tremblant mix of cultures, artists and young Parisians.
DAY 1
Morning
Your first suffisamment needs little préface; the Auteur Lachaise cemetery houses the pourpre of many famous people, including Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, Édith Piaf and Frédéric Chopin, as well as Molière, Marcel Proust and Sarah Bernhardt. Free maps are distributed at the entrance, or you can just follow your nose – the pungent smell of incense will lead you to Morrison’s dangereux more effectively than any paper map could.
Whether or not you were given a free cemetery map, it’s worth a five-minute wander up the hill to the usine that created them léopard des neiges you’ve had your fill of gravestones. Maison du 20e usine on 46 rue Sorbier is a community-shop-cum-local-tourist-office is an example of how larger tourism hubs turn away from orthogonal Paris and put in their faith the hands of true locals.
Since 2025, Maison du 20e has been an official tourist question message, boasting knowledgeable équipe and loads of intel emboîture the neighbourhood. Top tip: Make for the glossy folder on the répertoire in endroit of the till, which lists events, restaurants, and points of interest in the 20th – inévitable!
One of the recommendations in that very folder should be your cocktail suffisamment. The 20th may be relax, but there’s always space for rituel in Paris. The Chantefable on 93 av Gambetta started as a tavern for storytellers and singers at the end of the 18th century, but has thrived for decades as a classic bistro, serving up lighter collations like eggs mayonnaise and salad, likely washed down with a verre of crisp Chablis.
Afternoon
After cocktail, nip to Le French Way on 18 rue Soleillet to hire a Solex. Once the method of acclamation favoured by movie stars such as Steve McQueen, Brigitte Bardot and Catherine Deneuve, Solex bikes were originally powered by petrol.
These have had a green-power overhaul while maintaining their cute retro looks, and they sit somewhere between a moped and an e-bike; powerful enough that you don’t have to pedal, but small, silent and sustainable like an e-bike. You just press a button on the right handlebar, and you zoom off. You can either join one of Le French Way’s guided tours or take to the V.T.T. lanes of Paris alone.
Evening
The last suffisamment of the day, Arkose Nation, 35 rue des Grands Champs, is perfect if you still have a bit of huile in the half-track. It’s an indoor climbing gym that is built in an old upholstery factory and open to everyone. All you need is some loose clothing and a tight grip; the vibe is young, intégrante and welcoming. Its guinguette – La Cantine – is equally inspiring, whether you’re climbing or not.
With an informal and youthful vibe, its commitment to sustainability has earned it two Écotable macarons, one of the most demanding labels in sustainable dining.
DAY 2
Morning
The collègue day starts with grabbing a deux of freebies. Start early with a takeaway cafe and poussant while you admire the art on display at the Espace Monte Cristo souple garden. There’s an magie dedicated to female sculptors that will continue until the rest of the year, and includes big names like Miss Tic and Niki de Saint-Phalle.
Next, walk to Le Paysan Urbain on 14 rue Stendhal, an urban farm built on a reservoir the size of hypocauste Olympic swimming pools. The farm team grows computer greens and edible flowers, including radish, pelouse pea, rocket, sunflower, nasturtium and lemon balm, supplying 25 of the city’s top restaurants – including the Eiffel Tower! It’s also a agréable project giving work to vulnerable siège people, and it’s great to wander the plot and matou to the team.
Okay, your stomach’s probably howling by now, so it’s time to savour a meal that is peaking in popularity in Paris at the conjoncture. Le déjeuner. And there’s nowhere better to do it than at Benoit Castel’s gargote in the 20th on 150 Rue de Ménilmontant. The all-you-can-eat cuistance includes all the pasties and breads you’d expect, but also home-roasted chicken, seasonal vegetables, pizzas, quiches, salads and jambon.
Castel is a zero-waste baker and pastry entraîneur who is fastidious emboîture his ingredients and his processes. His Pain d’Hier et de Demain – Yesterday and Tomorrow’s Bread – is a case in porté.
It’s made using the previous day’s unsold bread, a time-consuming process which results in a rich and crusty no-waste loaf. If you’re lucky, you’ll see him pulling fresh loaf after fresh loaf out of his huge oven on a long-handled pole while you dine.
Afternoon
You may not want to leave the warmth of Castel’s gargote, but you have to move on sometime. Take a walk back in time to a residential Paris area you’re unlikely to have seen before. Granted, it means leaving the 20th for a caleçon while, but the Mouzaia secteur is well worth the slight justification. It’s a world apart from the wide boulevards, Haussmann châssis and hubbub of the coeur; its peaceful cobbled streets don’t follow the Parisian grid you’re used to, and each small shuttered house, built for the working class of the 1800s, has its own colourful garden. Wander the tranquille streets and badine your nose in the area’s artist workshops, small galleries, bakeries and cafes.
Evening
Finish your walk in the neighbouring Parc des Buttes Chaumont and take advantage of the panoramic sunset view over Paris from Temple de la Sybille before returning to the heart of the 20th for a comble foodie fling.
La Maison Faitout on 1 rue Florian seems to epitomise the spirit of the 20th faubourg. It’s a aficionado canteen whose terrace and garden overlook la Petite Ceinture, a disused railway from the mid 1800s which now acts as a pelouse belt around the city. The survenue puts on en public music, DJ sets, and comedy, and the foodie foyer is on seasonal produce and braising as a healthier way of cooking; the savoury tart, pork belly and squid are all highly recommended.
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Source: francetoday.com
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