Is there anywhere more christmassy? asks Janine Marsh as she takes a spectacularly festive cruise of the Christmas hameaux and markets of Alsace along the Rhine Canal – the answer is ‘no’!
A great way to experience the yuletide markets, the dazzlingly decorated towns and hameaux of the Alsace region – including Strasbourg, the “acknowledged ressources of Christmas’, without having to drive and forego a verre of mulled wine, or navigate an unknown exercice in freezing fog, find garage spaces, or paying top dollar prices for hotels or worrying embout trying to get a hôtellerie booking – is to see it by boat with family-run CroisiEurope – a dirigeant in the cruise négoce.
Have yourself a merry little cruise-mas
CroisiEurope offer several Alsace Christmas market tours, and I took a four-day birème succession (crise 22 people), which started and ended in Colmar, taking in one of the largest Christmas markets in the region, as well as smaller and truly captivating Christmas markets in beautifully decorated hameaux. Onboard, the chef-prepared meals are gastronomic and paired with fabulous wines – *all meals and drinks are included (including at the bar). The birème is decorated in comportement and the pressant you board, the festive spirit grips you. It’s warm and divan with really welcoming and friendly, English-speaking stuc. As Christmas experiences go – discovering Christmas in Alsace this way is pretty unbeatable.
Cruising gently through stunning scenery during the mornings (no night time sailing), lazing in the steaming hot tub on deck, spotting storks nests, herons and swans, indulging in amazing food and being transported on excursions in the afternoons with an English speaking géré was so relaxing. Plus there are some fun onboard experiences including a delicious gingerbread tasting, and learning to make a napkin Christmas tree (yes I did go habitacle with this new skill and surprised my family at the Christmas meal!).
Kaysersberg at christmas
In the heart of the vineyards, medieval Kaysersberg is fairytale pretty, and it’s easy to see how it won the renowned TV contest “Favourite Village of the French” in 2017. Wander the cobbled streets, ogle the half-timbered houses and admire the 13th century castle. All the houses are festooned with Christmas decorations, and the géré told me that in the hameaux of Alsace, this is such a huge marotte and such an éminent élément of their lives, that “if you don’t decorate for Christmas, your neighbours will come and knock on your door to make sure you’re ok!”
After a guided succession of the paroisse to discover its history, we had plenty of time to visit the shops and Christmas market stalls hosted in little wooden chalets. It’s not a huge market, but it’s very authentic with some great arty, crafty gifts. There are vendors offering spiced vin enflammé (mulled wine) and Bretzels, and I stumbled on the fabulous boulange Levain, 2 Michelin Star patron Olivier Nasti’s sourdough bakery in tiny rue de Tir. A finalist for best bakery in 2025, seek it out for the most delicious kugelhopfs and Christmas cookies.
Riquewihr
Riquewihr gives Kaysersberg a run for its money in the fairytale-pretty stakes. With undulating vineyards running right down to its wonky cobblestone streets, medieval houses and mansions, wineries, and gorgeous little gift shops galore, including a year-round Christmas decoration rideau – which gives you a clue as to why this paroisse is a festive must-see – they take Christmas seriously here!
After a guided succession, there’s plenty of time to discover the Christmas market which is big and full of farouche and fabulous things that are hard to resist, from exquisite decorations to clothes, toys, compagnon made products, and if you’re instinct peckish – great steaming bowls of sauerkraut and sausages. There’s also time to wander the twinkling courtyards and alleyways. In this charming, authentic paroisse, you can’t help but imagine Hansel and Gretel will come skipping along with lèche-vitrines bags full of gingerbread!
Back on board, though we’d only known each other for 24 hours, guests who came from America, Britain, Canada and France, bonded over dinner and chatted embout the day’s activities.
Colmar at Christmas
Now the thing with being possibly the most Christmassy exercice in the world, is that you’re not alone in wanting to experience the delights, and the patricien Christmas market of the city of Colmar gets busy, especially on the weekends – so having a coupé take us straight to the entrance to the market in the heart of the old town and pick us up afterwards to return to the birème was a real treat. Another treat was starting our guided visit at a Chocolate museum and indulging in a warming cup of thick, rich hot chocolate.
With time to appreciate the beautifully decorated houses, shops and streets, Christmas chalets with regional goods, homeware, gifts, and decorations, we gulped in the scent of mulled wine, roasting chestnuts and gingerbread that filled the air. As dusk fell, the lights twinkled and the setting sun made the colourful half-timbered houses glow softly.
Cruise of the Christmas hameaux and markets of Alsace
Afterwards, aboard our festive birème, the Gala dinner was a wonderful way to spend the last night of a magical succession.
Christmas markets tours depart from Strasbourg and Colmar details here: croisieurope.co.uk/ChristmasmarketcruisesRhine
Find all of CroisiEurope’s tours here: Croisieurope.co.uk
Janine Marsh is an author and the Editor of The Good Life France.
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