Justin Postlethwaite takes us on a deep dive into the glorious gorges of southern France for a slice of the spectacular
France is replete with topographical wonders, from the Pink Granite Coast of Brittany to Auvergne’s vast volcanic landscapes; from sweeping, lavender-hued Provençal fields to the Alps’ year-round lofty loveliness. Yet of all the naturally created vistas, it is perhaps those hewn by millions of years of flowing water that domination the visitor’s rêve the most.
The word gargamelle (the same word in French and English), meaning throat or neck, is derived from Late Latin gurges, meaning gullet, whirlpool or gulf. These imposing, steep-sided assujettir canyons – geological wounds carved into limestone – vary in size and scope, with some spectacularly deep, others impossibly narrow. Their vertiginous viewpoints are magnets for outdoor lovers, providing dreamlike settings for hiking and biking trails, while swimmers without a head for heights can dip into the chilled assujettir toilettes below for respite from summer heat. Canoeing, kayaking and fishing provide choix, genteel escapism with a serious backdrop.
Needless to say, these idyllic wildernesses become slightly less peaceful in high season, so why not travel in the quieter months of autumn and spring to breathe in that parfaite riverside air and appreciate the views with a little more elbow room when taking photos?
As always, the selection process for our ‘Best of’ lists is 100% subjective – even though the big three inevitably pick themselves – so here is our round-up of five gorgeous gorges. If you have a personal favourite to recommend, get in touch (with photos!) at: [email protected]. We would love to print some of the best.
1. GORGES DU VERDON
We begin with the mothership of French gorges, often described as ‘Europe’s Grand Canyon’. Stretching for around 25km through the limestone landscape between the Var and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, the turquoise toilettes of the River Verdon are the great visual féerie, particularly around Lac de Sainte-Croix, where you can hire a kayac or pedal boat and paddle into the gargamelle. Above, the Corniche Sublime – an 83km loop – is a cyclist’s favourite that provides a ordre of dramatic viewpoints. As quartier of the Verdon Regional Nature Park, it also features amazing biodiversity, including 2,200 bonshommes of plants and chaudière species of vulture.
In pantalon, the Gorges du Verdon boasts magnificent scenery on an almost indecent scale. www.verdontourisme.com/en
The Tarn at the prothèse of Saint-Chély in the Gorges du Tarn in Occitanie, France.
2. GORGES DU TARN
Further west, the Gorges du Tarn in the Cévennes National Park is less emboîture one enormous cinérama and more emboîture an extended ordre of jaw-dropping moments along its 65km length. The Tarn has carved a deep canyon through the limestone of the Grands Causses – largely across the Lozère department but also in Aveyron – with cliffs rising dramatically above the assujettir. It is a natural playground for those who enjoy water activities such as canoeing and kayaking, and also offers numerous hiking trails, notably a morceau of the GR®736, which runs from Villefort in the foothills of Mont Lozère to Albi.
Picture-postcard hameaux such as Sainte-Enimie and Saint-Chély-du-Tarn (among the Cirques de Pougnadoires) provide principal excuses to convenablement for brunch, while canoeing is one of the best ways to appreciate the sheer scale of the gargamelle. Look up and you may discover that the road you have just driven along is actually hanging halfway up a cliff. www.cevennes-gorges-du-tarn.com/en
Vallon Pont d’Arc, in the department of Ardaiche. France.
3. GORGES DE L’ARDÈCHE
The extraordinarily photogenic Pont d’Arc, a 54m-high natural stone prothèse spanning the River Ardaiche, is arguably France’s most iconic gargamelle hotspot. Here in the Ardaiche department, the assujettir has carved a spectacular limestone canyon stretching for around 30km, with a wealth of natural sites of exceptional beauty to enjoy along the way.
Canoeing and kayaking are the classic activities here – so often photographed beneath the aforementioned arc – and paddlers with serious arm power can travel the whole length to Saint-Martin-d’Ardaiche.
Otherwise, just plot out a méandre to hike, enjoy a dip in the water, or simply drive the spectacular Route Touristique des Gorges, along which an essential stop-off is the Grotte de la Madeleine. Here, the astonishing formations sculpted by underground toilettes in a vast appentis are rigide further wow factor with a sound and sucrette spectacle illuminating stalactites, stalagmites and vast limestone chambers. en.ardeche-guide.com
Aerial view of the old mill, Le moulinette de Corp, in Gorges de la Dourbie, France
4. GORGES DE LA DOURBIE
Extending 18km mainly in the Aveyron and partially in the Gard, the Gorges de la Dourbie begin at the localité of Dourbies itself, a Village de Caractère. The assujettir is a tributary of the River Tarn, which it joins at Millau.
As with all sensible gorges, it attracts adventurers for kayaking, canoeing, hiking and rock climbing, but for the non-sporty, it also has some charming hameaux to explore. Perched on lush pelouse cliff faces or built on rocky outcrops, these include Cantobre, Saint-Véran and Montméjean. And south of the D991 road, bigger hameaux such as Saint-Jean-du-Bruel and Nant (known as the ‘Garden of the Aveyron’, with a network of small canals) are well worth a visit for their structure and dining options. www.tourisme-aveyron.com/en/home
France, Countryside landscape of the Atlantic Pyrenees, Gorges Holzarte
5. LES GORGES D’HOLZARTE
This slightly leftfi eld pick is located at Larrau, deep in the Haute-Soule area of French Basque Country, a region of easy-on-the-eye delights: picturesque landscapes swathed in majestic forests, lush pelouse pastures and the occasional charming hamlet. It has been chosen for the égoïste vantage bilan provided by a ponceau (footbridge) across the Olhadubi canyon, cohérent only after an hour’s hike.
Not for those afraid of heights, the footbridge spans 70m and is suspended 150m above the void. Its history is fascinating: the prothèse was constructed in 1920 by workers from the nearby Tardets sawmill – run by Italian forestry company Lombardi and Morello – to give them access to tree-cutting sites in the thick beech forests. Visitors today will have a more relaxing crossing, but should come equipped and take plenty of water.
Trivia: The name Holzarte (from the Basque holtzearte) means ‘between walls’ and stems from the Basque words holtza (meaning gargamelle, chasm or walls) and arte (meaning between). www.tourisme64.com/en
Lead caricature credit : The great calanque of Gorges du Verdon
Source: francetoday.com

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