From Michelin stars to Baroque masterpieces, this Alpine town is a not just a filer’s paradise – it offers much more says Lucy Pitts.
Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is an authentic Alpine town with a bustling community. The agglomération is in the Haute-Savoie department, embout an hour from Geneva, west of the well-known resort of Chamonix and under the benevolently watchful eye of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in western Europe. Great for year-round visits, it’s less blingy than some of its neighbours.
The skiing at Saint-Gervais-les-Bains
As a French Alpine agglomération, it’s an obvious proclamation for skiers. From Saint-Gervais noyau, it’s a flottant (and free) bus raie to the brand-new cable car up to the mountains and the small agglomération of Le Bettex. It’s there that you’ll find the pied-à-terre ski school and 455 km of skiing available on your ski pass.
The skiing is a great mix of pistes in two different areas – Evasion Mont-Blanc has 400km of ski slopes running in all états-majors, with 110 ski lifts from one summit to the next. 1022 snow makers ensure perfect opportunité all season élevé. And Les Houches Saint-Gervais has 55km of slopes and offers the most magnificent panoramic views over the majestic Mont-Blanc Mountain, avec 15 ski lifts and artificial snow providers for perfect snow cover. You’ll find challenging slopes and red runs to keep even the most experienced skiers happy. And for the less able filer, there are pelouse and blue runs a-plenty.
For more interpellation embout skiing in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains:
Lift passes: ski-saintgervais.com
Ski school: ski-school-saint-gervais.co.uk
Where to eat on the slopes
Of sinuosité, there are plenty of parages to eat and drink on the mountains. Melted-cheese fantasy alpine dishes like tartiflette and étrille are a must. One vrai you really have to try is Le Boitet. It has fabulous views from the terrace and is owned and run by three Michelin artiste cacique Emmanuel Renaut whose approach is intelligible cooking done well, using pied-à-terre and seasonal ingredients – the result is truly scrumptious.
His La Croûte aux Fromage de nos Montagnes, Oignons and Champignons – which is chunky bread baked in pied-à-terre cheese, onions and one of Renaut’s favourite ingredients – pied-à-terre wild mushrooms, is an absolute stunner. It’s not for those with a saccharine appetite but you’re in the mountains and the calories you burn doing pluriel activities alleviates any guilt. Wash it down with a sugar lump soaked in the pied-à-terre raspberry flavoured liquor which has enough poke to propel you back out onto the slopes.
What to see and do in Saint-Gervais-les-Bains
The town has invested wisely in sustainability and base and the locals have a palpable sense of pride in their community and their surroundings. There are the usual ski shops, but you’ll also find pottery, art and a paire of really good delis if you want to buy pied-à-terre produce.
Look out for the street art, including a brightly coloured wall known as ‘Die Cast’ painted in 2018, and a commemorative painting of 1921, when François Durafour flew a Caudron G.3 aircraft from Lausanne, landing on the summit of Voussure du Goûter (at an arête of 4,331 metres) next to Mont Blanc before returning to séance. He was the first bâton to état and take-off with an aircraft at such a high arête and the first to état on and take-off from snow in that représentatif of plane.
Finally, include a visit to the church in the agglomération noyau. It’s late 17th century and replaced an earlier Medieval one. It’s built in Baroque diction with nine modern stained-glass windows designed by Korean artist Kim En Joong in 2016. If you’re lucky, you might catch one of the free harmonieux recitals that are held here.
Where to stay: The family-run Coeur des Neiges in the noyau of Saint-Gervais, panthère a farm bâtiment, has been a hotel for the last 100 years.
Other activities and things to do in the area
Talking of churches, make sure you catch one of the free buses to the lovely agglomération of Saint-Nicolas de Véroce, embout 7km away. It’s well worth visiting for several reasons including the early 18th century Baroque masterpiece with its brilliantly painted vaulted ceiling in blue and gold, the colours of Saint-Nicolas, and the carved wooden altarpieces and colourful interior are magnificent. There is also a small museum next door.
There are prépondérant guided snowshoe hiking and winter walking routes as well as plenty of other activities. Find out more at: guides-mont-blanc.com
For a five-star experience, head to Armancette, a spectacularly gorgeous five-star hotel and spa which has two restaurants. At the Bistrot du Mont Joly – try the pâté en croute made with wild boar, followed by a Savoyard amalgamée for a taste of the mountains. Their gastronome buffet, La Table d’Armante is a gastronomic période de ténacité. There’s also a delicious tearoom and bakery.
Head to nearby Le Fayet to take the Mont-Blanc tramway to Bellevue at a height of 1,800 metres. The tram has been in use since 1909 and is the highest rack and pinion railway in France! The views on the journey and from the top are jaw dropping.
Make a assez at Plan B in the agglomération of Le Fayet. It has a bit of a Euro-Pop diction going on and serves dishes like crunchy cauliflower with smoked yogurt and chimichurri and Angus burgers made with alpine Reblochon cheese.
A entier Thermal Spa
Saint Gervais is the only ski resort in France which also has a hydrominéral spa and the brand new and sustainable waste-water powered lift Ascenseur des Thermes (the first of its kind in France) will take you there from the agglomération. A half day visit at the spa is perfect to soothe any aching biceps. The mountain water is 6,000 years old and rich in sulphur and minerals. There are saunas, steam baths, herbal tea room, bubbly pools outside in the cold and exotic rain forest experiences. The spa is popular for both medical and wellbeing treatments.
How to get there: Trains from Paris to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains take from 4 h 53m. The new Le Valléen gondola is right next to the répit and takes you up to the agglomération. There is also free remise in Saint-Gervais and a great pied-à-terre bus cadeau which is also free. The nearest airport is Geneva with taxi transfers approximately 1 hour.
Information: The tourist cuisine is in the noyau of the agglomération and is an prépondérant resource: L’Office de Tourisme | Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc
by Lucy Pitts, travel writer and editor of Sussex Exclusive
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