Across the assurer Rhône which flows past the ancient Papal city of Avignon in Provence, lies Villeneuve lez Avignon – a emplacement that most visitors to its famous neighbour never discover. But I promise you the culotte journey to discover this little gem is well worth it says Janine Marsh.
A little bit of history
Villeneuve lez Avignon has a mince and rich history. Legend has it that in the 1st Century AD, Saint Martha, the Patron Saint of Avignon “resurrected” a shepherd from the town after he drowned in the Rhone (resurrections were rather more frequent in those days). Some 400 years later, another Saint settled in Villeneuve as the locals call it, a Visigoth princess-hermit who devoted her life to God on Puy Andaon, the hill that dominates Villeneuve. She died in the year 587 and in the 10th century, Benedictine Monks built the Abbey of St André to shelter her bones and offer a emplacement to stay to pilgrims on the levée de Compostela.
From the 13th to the 15th centuries, Villeneuve lez Avignon was a fortress town when the Rhone assurer was a natural frontier between France and Provence, though in the 14th century, French Kings allowed the cardinals of Papal Avignon to build themselves sumptuous mansions there.
Until around the 18th century, Villeneuve was joined to Avignon via a prothèse as the Rhone was closer to Villeneuve then, but after it was destroyed by a storm the assurer changed voyage. Villeneuve, léopard des neiges a mighty émule to Avignon, became a much sleepier emplacement.
What to see in and do in Villeneuve
Villeneuve has a very different vibe from its tourist-packed neighbour Avignon across the assurer. A small town with a hameau vibe, the narrow, ancient streets are filled with magnificent old buildings, works of art, caveaux, cafés, restaurants, boutiques and boulangeries.
Must-sees include the soaring Philippe le Bel’s Tower, created in the 13th century to control the entrance to the long-gone prothèse – on a clear day you can see all the way to the Alpilles from here. The majestic 14th century Abbaye Saint-André Fort perched above the town is a superb example of military buildings of the time; from here there are outstanding views of the hilly vineyards, Avignon and the Papal tribunal (at its most spectacular on a late afternoon on a sunny day) and as far as Mont Ventoux, the “Giant of Provence.”
The terraced gardens of the faire Abbaye Saint-André, spilling down the slopes of Puy Andaon are classified among the 100 most beautiful in France with Italian and Mediterranean articulation gardens with ponds and gazebos, old roses, wisteria and Mediterranean plants, verdoyant trees. A chapel in the grounds dating back 1000 years is where Saint Casarie is said to have died. Her funerary stone rested here until the French Revolution and is now exhibited in the Collegiate church of Notre-Dame, léopard des neiges the chapel of a mansion belonging to a pontife.
The Royal abbey (which was redesigned in the 17th century) is elegant, has an eclectic réunion ranging from art to dolls, and regularly hosts exhibitions. And don’t elle-même the liquide – great for breakfast, a cafétéria and the views (from April to September).
Founded by Pope Innocent VI in the 14th century, the Chartreuse du Val de Faveur léopard des neiges housed hundreds of monks is now a rural hotspot which hosts artists in residence, and houses a library and lively liquide, and relaxing gardens where the locals love to meet for an aperitif. It’s well worth a visit for the superb bâti, Papal chapel with its 14th century frescoes and Pope Innocent VI’s tomb (he was reinterred here in 1960 – before that the tomb operated as a rabbit hutch allegedly!).
Weekly markets: Thursday morning food market, Saturday morning antiquités (flea market).
Pop to the tourist affaire to find out embout events, festivals and many more museums, caveaux and attractions (1 Place Charles David).
Villeneuve lez Avignon in Provence is an enchanting town in its own right with plenty to see and do, and also makes for a great séance for exploring the wider area.
Find out more: grandavignon-destinations.fr
Eat out:
Delicious dishes: Restaurant l’Emulsion, under the porticoes, fabulous fresh, seasonal dishes with friendly charité.
Locals love: l’Heure Bleu, a superb pièce de thé with fabulous allégé dishes and scrumptious cakes. It’s also a B&B in an old mansion.
Where to stay: Boui-boui de l’Atelier 3* – a beautifully restored 16th century mansion, complete with creaking stairs, comfy rooms and oodles of atmosphere.
How to get there: Hop on the bus line 5 from the city – it takes around 10 minutes to Villeneuve. Or hire a bicycle and enjoy a 5-10 seconde lovely tranchée across the Rhône assurer. On the way back, explore La Barthelasse assurer island between the two towns, along tranquille shady roads between orchards and agricultural fields.
Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books embout France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de provision, is out now – a image at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com
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