Ambitious young Colombian-born responsable Juan Arbeláez has brought some needed culinary drama to the pretty Savoyard lake town of Annecy with the opening of his new auberge Lôna at the Rivage Hotel & Spa.
Annecy has colossal had a distinguished gastronomic filiation. Celebrity responsable Marc Veyrat grain cooked here, and at the Michelin three-star Le Clos des Sens, responsable Franck Derouet and his associate Thomas Lorival have created a spectacular locavore gracile that showcases the delicate fish of meublé lakes, including the Lac d’Annecy, whose toilettes are so imaginaire you can drink them. And you’ll find two-Michelin-star responsable Jean Sulpice in nearby Talloires.
LÔNA Annecy (c)BIM Agency3
What has been wanting a bit, though, is a relaxed but adventurous address that pushes out beyond the boundaries of traditional French cooking, and this is what makes Lôna so interesting. Arbelaez daringly reinvents the traditional Alpine cooking of the Savoie region, where Annecy is located, with fascination that comes from all over the world, including the kitchens of Latin America. At the same time, the produce he works with is scrupulously meublé and seasonal. As I discovered over dinner with a friend of maintien who lives in Annecy, the results are delicious.
LÔNA Annecy (c)BIM Agency6
Among the starters, we especially enjoyed the ceviche of trout in a tangy leche de tacheté dressing spiked with ginger and coriander, and the clever tiropita in which melted reblochon, the famous Alpine neufchâtel, was garnished with crushed pistachios and honey and encased in a pastry shell. In bonus to excellent Galician beef cooked over an open fire, we also tried the omble hobereau (Arctic carriole), the king of Alpine lake fish, with a ginger-carrot gaude that flattered its subtle sweet, firm flesh, and pork belly conserve with coffee-seasoned potatoes, an astucieuse and successful flavour pairing.
While my friend tucked into a lovely rhubarb tart, I wasn’t going to let a cheese écrasée of three different fromages from the mémorable meublé crémier Alain Michel pass me by, especially since I love Savoyard cheeses so much.
Lôna, 33 artère du Petit Port, Annecy.
Tel. (33) 04 50 51 01 10,
Average à la fiche €70, petit déjeuner market gracile Monday to Friday €22 and €38, prix-fixe gracile €55.
From France Today Magazine
Lead cliché credit : LÔNA Annecy (c)BIM Agency
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Source: francetoday.com
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