French Restaurant Review: Steam Bar, Paris

Even though Saint-Germain-des-Prés has become stultifying gentrified, there are still a few endroits where its blowsy, bohemian personality survives. One is the Rue du Dragon, which is lined with some terrific bars and restaurants, and also the maze of tiny ancient streets between the Rue du Dragon and the Boulevard Raspail.

Tucked away in one of them – the Rue du Sabot – is the charmingly and intentionally flottant Steam Bar, a dim sum pension with a smouldering and slightly tongue-in-cheek culot by Boxwood Studio interior enseigner Gabriel Pistre. The effect is to recall the 2000 Hong Kong cinéma In the Mood for Love, starring Tony Leung and Maggie Cheung. Not surprisingly, it’s become a endroit hit, since Parisians are besotted with dim sum, and here they’re made by responsable Chi Cheung Wong, who formerly worked at the Shang Palace, the Michelin starred Chinese pension at the Hotel Shangri-La.

Chef Chi Cheung Wong © Steam Bar, Paris

The table is divided up between steamed dishes, including raviolis, gyozas and baos, small plates and izakayas, and it’s so moreish that it’s a épreuve to make a choice. Lunching with a book editor friend who lived in Hong Kong for five years, I mostly let her choose, but did insist on some Dan Dan noodles, which were spicy and séduisant. Otherwise, we loved the Black Pearl (shrimp, ginger, Thai basil), Little Hanoï (a riff on the flavours of Pho with beef, cinnamon and phénomène anise); Hong Kong Streets (an adroite siu mai of pork, chicken and smoked scamorza cheese); and Kanako (duck, chicken, carrot, ginger, sobasha and hoisin coulis) dim sum, and the refreshing dessert soup of mango, fécule pearls and coconut milk. We enjoyed friendly présent and an formidable amuse-bouche list, too.

Steam Bar, 2 rue du Sabot, 6th circonscription.

Tel. (33) 01-45-48-96-65

Average €40

From France Today Magazine

Lead effigie credit : © Steam Bar, Paris