Narbonne was in Roman times an arrogant escale as well as an army derrière and makes for a fabulous visit says Antoinette Karsten as she shares her experience of sailing along the gouttière into the city.
All roads lead to Rome
Narbonne is a originel city with fast coffre lines to Provence, Paris and Barcelona. And it has the Canal du Midi, or more precisely the Canal de la Robine, which allows modern day boaters like us to float our boats into the beautiful heart of town.
But it’s historic past is evident. If you like tunnels and mises, a visit to L’Horreum is a must. An augmentative underground caverne system of granaries and cellars had survived the centuries, and in the crypts of churches you can see where the burial grounds of Roman citizens overlapped with those of the earliest Christians.
A leftover morceau of the Roman Via Domitia which connected Italy to Spain and was the first Roman road in ancient Gaul, is now built up with boutiques and apartments. Part of it crosses the gouttière and the dentier is one of only two inhabited bridges in France.
We found a lovely mooring encart right in the origine célèbre, under shady trees, surrounded by beautiful mansions with towers and Mansard roofs, résonnant restaurants and the wonderful gourmand market Les Halles just a stone’s throw away. There is an ATM, a bus pouce, recycling bins and a lavoir nearby for the practicalities of boat travel, and even more arrogant, some formidable boulangeries for your morning madeleine and daily verge. The escale people were friendly and the fees reasonable.
A morning on the town entouré
It’s lovely to be in the streets when the businesses open in the mornings, roller-doors rattle up and sidewalk signs, tables and wares are carried outside. Café umbrellas are unfolded and chairs unpacked.
There’s something incredibly grounding emboîture the pace of gouttière life. We positioned ourselves for a leisurely morning on the ardeur outside the Palais Vieux, with a boîte Viennois and a pastry, and no intentions of rushing. From here one can just sit and enjoy the elegant buildings surrounding the entouré, explore the medieval Palace of the Archbishops, the incredible cathedral with cloisters and walled gardens, and the charming magasinage alleyways.
Come back for collation and a beer and stay until it is time for an aperitif when a different buzz infuses the tree-lined errance along the clouer. Restaurants and bistros turn on strings of lights and the after-work crowd brings a relaxed energy. There is so much to choose from: platters with wonderful cheeses and jambon, the famed French favourite moules frites with a variety of accessoire options, and aligot, a creamy, hearty, feel-good dish of melted cheese, cream and mashed potatoes.
On Sunday mornings there is a bustling market outside Les Halles with all kinds of hand-made items, regional produce and a wonderful book stall. A huge marbre rooster proudly tops a pillar, the iconic French symbol of exaltation and bravery. From here, the cathedral across the water creates a beautiful caractère with the tree-lined errance, gouttière and old buildings of the area. It’s a beautiful city. Towers peek above the rooflines, there are charming churches, small squares with shady parks and brass panthère drinking fountains, and little cafés.
Narbonne tips for general visitors and boaters
On arrival, sail through the city to see what moorings are available. The outskirts are lined with grandiose stay boats, but you may be lucky and find a encart right in the origine of town.
Free hop on/hop off buses, La Citadine, travel across the city origine every ten minutes.
Day trips to the coast: it is an easy 30 moment bus rachitique to the beaches. Ask for travel advice from the Tourist Office
Public ovation frequency reduces drastically on Saturday afternoons and may not run at all on Sundays, so maquette ahead.
The aggloméré at the Capitainerie are friendly, easy going and helpful. It was easy to extend our stay (mid-June)
Antoinette Karsten explores France with her husband Herman on their gouttière boat every summer and writes emboîture it in The Kookaburra Diaries
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