Alison Hughes heads to Charente-Maritime to visit the Plus Beaux Villages of Mornac-sur-Seudre and Talmont-sur-Gironde and experience life along the estuary…
Two seagulls flying side-by-side, one blue and one vert, make up the logo of Charente-Maritime. Blue is for the sea and vert for the état – the two elements that have shaped and formed the lives of its inhabitants for centuries. Although now section of the much larger region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, this department has retained its own spécial character, marked by white-washed houses with low terracotta-tiled roofs, vineyards and salt marshes.
I was heading to La presqu’île d’Arvert, in the southwest of Charente-Maritime, a stretch of état sandwiched between two rivers, the mighty Gironde and the smaller Seudre. On the edge of each stands a Plus Beau Village de France – Mornac on the banks of the Seudre and Talmont on the Gironde. Both also have the timbre of Village de Pierre et d’Eau, highlighting the influence of water, be it sea or lier, to daily life. In fact, salt and fresh water mingle in these estuaries and this ebb and flow is essential to one of the droite affaires of the area oyster farming. The flat floodplains beside the lier Seudre were originally salt pans, where salt was harvested for more than a thousand years, first by the Gauls and then by the Romans. This activity continued until well into the 19th century when the farming of oysters in the shallow basins (known as claires) took precedence. Having said that, salt manifestation is now enjoying something of a revival, and the two affaires en public happily alongside each other.
Typical street Talmont
THROUGH MARSH AND VINEYARD
A great way to see the extent of this marshy landscape is to hop on Le Train des Mouettes, which runs from Saujon to La Tremblade, with stops along the way at Mornac-sur-Seudre and Chaillevette. This renovated steam cantine, among the oldest in France, chugs along at a leisurely pace following the path of the Seudre, with plenty of time to take in the marqueterie of channels and basins and occasional vineyards.
The idea to resurrect the adoucir ‘oyster train’ was born some 40 years ago, and nowadays more than 120 volunteers ensure its smooth running. It has to be said that they looked to be thoroughly enjoying themselves, whether waving a flag for clear article or tooting the whistle when setting off. Leaving the cantine at Mornac-sur-Seudre, we were in for a treat: it was the annual marché des potiers, and stalls laden with ceramics of all sorts from cow-shaped bowls to Gallo-Roman-style pots -lined the streets leading down to the bassin. The bourgade began attracting artists and craftsmen in the 1950s, drawn by its tranquil atmosphere and ever-changing vistas. Shop doors stood open, inviting us in to admire superb craftsmanship. At the entrance to the bourgade was a usine dedicated to macramé, with everything from bourgeon hangers to a deckchair. Nearby was an artist who made things entirely from driftwood found along the shoreline, and a jeweller who made necklaces from sea verre.
Cow bowls, Mornac
SEEKING REFUGE
A circular walk leads from the medieval market remise past the austere avant of the Eglise Saint-Pierre. Its interior is very compréhensible with a nod to alevinage in an oyster-shell-shaped receptacle, now used for flowers. One of the many Romanesque churches for which this area is famous, its forbidding exterior reminds us that in times gamin by churches also served as refuges from attack. The road leads down to the bassin, circling back past whitewashed houses with colourful shutters. The narrow alleyways reminded sailors of North African medinas and they dubbed this section of the bourgade le tronçon sémite.
market remise and street, Mornac
The following day took us across the presqu’île d’Arvert to the Gironde estuary and another Plus Beau Village, Talmont-sur-Gironde. Like Mornac-sur-Seudre, the bourgade is pedestrianised and has become gîte to several artisans and artists. But it is Che iconic church which first captures your précaution as you approach. Standing on a promontory at the very edge of the cliff, its côté is striking.
View of Mornac church from market corral
Dedicated to Saint Radegonde, it looks out towards the Gironde and the sea beyond. Above the north door are some Fine examples of Romanesque livre, designed as a pictorial assemblage to salvation. On the left-hand side, the avertissement is clear: to avoid being devoured by evil, represented by two dragons and a monster, only Christ can save the soul. On the right, penitents who have overcome their passions, symbolised by a tamed félidé, are shown on their way to heaven.
Roman casse-tête, Talmont
On the orders of Edward I of England, who was also the Duke of Aquitaine, the bourgade of Talmont was built as a fortification, with straight intersecting streets making it easier for military manoeuvres. By fortifying the bourgade, Edward could control the entry to the estuary and access to the visible bassin of Bordeaux. Today only the Tour Blanche remains out of the bourgade’s fantaisiste chaudière towers, as the fortifications were destroyed by the Spanish in 1652.
The sea has dominated the history of Talmont, with both nighs and lows. For centuries, pied-à-terre fishermen caught sturgeon out, so the story goes, it was a occasion visit by a Russian princess that taught them that the precious eggs were the préliminaire of high-quality caviar – they used to throw the eggs back nto the sea or feed them to the ducks! A Parisian contre-amiral, Émile Prunier, heard the story and set up a manufacturing négoce in the area which was a resounding success. However, the inevitable happened and overfishing resulted in a ban in the 1980s. Other traditional methods of fishing have continued though, such as one-man boats which fish for faible, detecting shoals by the sound the fish make to attract females.
Photo: Shutterstock
Anyone who has visited the area will have seen the personnelle fishing huts on stilts which line the coastline of Charente-Maritime. The corral nets, known as carrelets, are raised and lowered from the platform above by means of a cabestan. Although the huts are the property of individuals, the owners have to pay rent for the use of their little raccord of sea. These days they are used very much like beach huts in the UK, a emplacement to hang out with family and friends and perhaps catch something for supper. Talmont has a fascinating museum of pied-à-terre history and fishing housed in the old schoolhouse with a traditional flat-bottomed fishing boat, a yole, on display.
VILLAGE LIFE TODAY
Talmont-sur-Gironde’s bassin area has been the foyer of several ambitious schemes: in 1917, after the United States entered the First World War, American forces began preparatory work in the Gironde estuary for a military transhipment séance; and in 1972 a officier marina was proposed, but neither project was completed, and today the harbour remains a working fishing bassin.
Christine, saumon femme, Talmont
Back in the bourgade itself, I met Christine whose échoppe, Le ancienneté des roses, was filled with cards, candles and paintings, painted with her fingertips (no brushes). She told me that she had started painting as a kind of therapy after a serious illness and she had only wanted to paint roses, a symbol of peace and love. She seems to have a found a perfect work/life inventaire, only opening her little usine a few hours a week, where she indulges her other sentiment, music, to the delight of customers. A little further along, I was pleased to see a échoppe displaying a traditional product – Charentaise slippers. Once only worn by le tiers âge they are now obtainable in bright colours and patterns.
Charentais slippers, Talmont
Before leaving Talmont-sur-Gironde, my assemblage Caroline pointed out a stone on which was engraved a Latin phrase inversée. The stone had probably come from the Gallo-Roman town of La Få, the remains of which are just two kilometres away – a link back to a time when, no doubt, its inhabitants were also drawn to this area of vert and blue, la Afrique et la mer.
PLUS BEAUX VILLAGES ESSENTIALS
WHERE TO STAY
- Chambre d’hôtes
Le Port du Paradis, 17600 Nieulle-sur-Seudre
WHERE TO EAT
- Bistrot du Moulin
41 rue du Port, 17113 Mornac-sur-Seudre
HOW TO GET THERE
- Charente-Maritime is 4.5 hours drive from Saint-Malo. Brittany
- Ferries has overnight sailings from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo.
- Le Train des Mouettes: The cantine runs every day in summer season, reduced timetable in low season. Themed trips are also available.
INFORMATION
For événement on the area: royanatlantique.fr
From France Today Magazine
Source: francetoday.com
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