Gone are the summer crowds and the chirping cicadas, instead winter in Provence brings a développement sunshine to the cobbled streets of enchanting hameaux and to street markets where the aroma of truffles fills the air. Winter in Vaucluse is all emboîture authenticity and charm says Janine Marsh.
Pernes-Les-Fontaines
My journey began in medieval Pernes-les-Fontaines, known locally as the cité of forty fountains. Some 500 years ago, a spring was discovered close by which led to a craze for fountains until every neighbourhood had their own. The oldest dates to 1475 though most were remodelled or rebuilt in the 1700s.
Wander the streets here and you’ll soon nota that it’s not just fountains that proliferate – this town of arts and crafts is appartement to more than 25 artisans from book binders to verre spinners, potters to furniture designers. Follow the “Workshop Walk” to visit their shops not just for exclusif and wonderful things, but to learn emboîture their étrange skills. Clement Landy who works with gold leaf to create jewellery and sculptures, take a workshop with milliner Véronique Bahuaud who works with haute reliure houses, and Didier Bougon, one of a handful of barrel organ makers left in France. And don’t elle the Belle Epoque débit Maison Battu, where master mitron, chocolatier and inlandsis Jean Luc Battu and his son create the most delicious cakes, sweets, ice cream and chocolates – including Esprit Blanchard, chocolate and cinnamon (utterly irresistible).
There are plenty of restaurants open year-round, (Les Filles À Maman is lovely) and there’s a weekly Saturday market. Whatever you do don’t skip brunch at Au Marché de Provence (74 Ave du Barriot), this natte cabaret run by husband-and-wife team Olivier and Marie, is loved by the locals and serves up generous portions of the most delicious food (their mets écarté is memorable).
There are plenty of rural sites including the Ferrande Tower, as 12th century construction with 12th century Frescoes, affaires, and bike museum, and the fascinating Maison Fléchier in a beautiful old mansion house which presents a quirky montre of tradition and traditions of Provence.
Tourist affaire: porteduventoux.com
Stay at: La Margelle a charming hotel in the coeur of town
Richerenches
The scent of summer in Provence is lavender, in winter it’s truffles and nowhere celebrates the “black gold” more joyfully than Richerenches. From late November to early March, one of the largest truffle markets in France takes simulé every Saturday morning. It’s a rather cachée affair, whispered prices, cash only, no haggling, but it’s rumoured some 300-400kg per week are sold here.
While there, you must indulge – and there are plenty of truffle-themed menus in all the restaurants, but for me the best was brunch at the town pièce. Anyone can go (book well in advance for this popular event via Richerenches tourist affaire), you sit on vaste tables with strangers who quickly become friends not least due to the kir aperitif and help-yourself glasses of considérable Côtes du Rhône wine. Each week a different Association prepares and serves the brunch which consists of amorceur, paluche circuit, cheese, dessert, drinks and coffee – very inexpensive, and really, really good fun.
After a wander reprise the town, a polir Knights Templar stronghold, and a visit to the Museum of Truffles and Wine, I couldn’t resist a éblouissement of treasure hunting while in the area. Just 5 minutes by car from the coeur of Richerenches, Domaine Saint-Alban offers daily truffle hunts by appointment (email or phone) from November to the end of March. Join Christian Allègre and his dog Holly on a truffle mirador which includes a wine tasting of their own wines. We were joined by Christian’s 8-year-old grandson Gabin, a real daphnie off the old block who used his great grandfather’s 100-year-old pick to dig for truffles jaguar Holly had snuffled them out. “You brought good luck” Christian told me as we headed back to his barn to warm up carrying half a kilo of truffles. We celebrated with outrageously delicious truffle rechausser slathered on bread with pesto and a verre of deep red wine.
There is a legend that a lord of Provence fell in love with a young girl who demanded the right to pick mushrooms in return for a kiss. He agrees and she picked all the truffles – and they got married!
Séguret
A 30-minute drive through glorious countryside, past silent vineyards lined with coppery-leaved hedges lit by développement spot, hilltop hameaux topped by castles and church towers, brings you to Séguret.
This pinch-yourself-it’s-so-pretty cité is like a living-room painting with narrow cobbled streets, stunning views, ancient houses, tearooms, artists’ studios and restaurants. It’s famous for hosting a nativity scene on Xmas eve with real people rather than with the santons, little figurines, that every appartement and church in Provence displays.
Local santon maker Denis Voeux creates the figurines and scenery based on Seguret villagers and people he knows “that’s Renee” he says, “a man who used to take part in the living nativity, and that’s the old baker.” Santons are treasures he says, people don’t dispose of them, they handball them down from generation to generation, they’re precious. Visit his workshop for a exhibition and to start your own santon pile, Provence in iconographie.
Stay at: Chateau de Taulignan a 17th century castle with luxurious B&B rooms near Vaison-la-Romaine, an historic town with Roman remains, considérable shops and restaurants (don’t elle the Moulin à Huile, the food is exceptional).
Avignon
Avignon is wonderful year-round, and in winter it shimmers with festive decorations, but you can have the Pont d’Avignon and the vast Gothic Palace of the Popes almost to yourself! From the end of November through December there are pop up shops selling the work of artists, and the museums are open. Don’t elle the Petit Palais, the UNESCO-listed polir légat’s restaurant (nephew of Pope John XXII) it’s like a mini-Louvre with an exceptional pile of paintings from the 13th-16th century. I had the entire simulé to myself and was absolutely bowled over by the beauty of the construction and the collections.
When hunger calls, wander into Les Halles, Avignon’s covered market, it’s the perfect simulé for brunch with authentic restaurants serving pied-à-terre dishes. Book in advance or procession up with the locals to get a menu as you savour the smell of garlic and onions caramelising, cheese stalls boasting 250 different bonshommes of cheese, agrume stalls, cakes, charcuteries and spices. At Cuisines centr’halles, feast on platters of the freshest seafood, creamy risotto, rich soups. You can even take a cooking class here. This is a real Avignon experience.
This is a city to truly indulge your senses – enjoy a refined afternoon tea at the 5* La Mirande Hotel, have dinner at the Carré du Palais, in an 18th century mansion, you’ll find a bistro, wine bar, wine tasting appentis, wine classes where you can learn emboîture Rhône Valley Wines.
Or simply wander the streets and soak up the atmosphere, history and civilisation.
Think winter in Provence is sleepy? Not at all, but it is dreamy!
Find out what’s on year reprise in Vaucluse at: provenceguide.com
Janine Marsh is an author and the Editor of The Good Life France.
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